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Cigar Spirits: Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel Straight Kentucky Bourbon

16 May 2013

Buffalo Trace is one of the most prolific bourbon makers in America. In addition to their eponymous bourbon, Buffalo Trace makes a range that includes the impossible-to-find Pappy Van Winkle; the slightly more available Special Reserve; the cutting-edge-turned-classic Blanton’s Single Barrel; the highly sought-after Antique Collection, including George T Stagg; and great values like Eagle Rare and W.L. Weller, among others.

Elmer-T-Lee-bourbonOne Buffalo Trace bourbon that I had missed over the years was Elmer T. Lee, at least until last week. (Credit goes to David “Doc” Diaz of Stogie Fresh for speaking highly of it during one of the bourbon conversations on my recent Cigar Safari.) At his urging, I picked up a bottle for the reasonable price of $30.

The single barrel selection is named in honor of longtime Buffalo Trace head distiller Elmer T. Lee. And while the now retired Lee goes by the title “Master Distiller Emeritus,” he still personally selects the barrels that go into his 90-proof, single barrel bourbon.

Elmer T. Lee, which comes in a classic-looking squat, square-ish bottle, pours a light copper color. The nose features a bit of oak with lots of sweetness including vanilla, rock candy, marshmallow, and tropical fruits.

On the palate you find a soft, easy drinking combination of vanilla, honey, and dried fruit. The finish shows hints at some woody spice but quickly tapers off, leaving you wanting more.

And that’s what I enjoy about this bourbon. It’s an easy sipper that’s balanced and rich. You’ll want to look for similar qualities in a cigar pairing. Herrera Estelí, PG Gourmet Series, La Aurora 107, L’Atelier, and Illusione Epernay are some of the cigars that fit the bill.

As for Elmer T. Lee, this seems like a definite addition to my permanent rotation. It’s 95% of the richness of Blanton’s at just 60% of the price, and certainly worthy of drinking straight. If you like bourbon but haven’t made a point of trying Elmer T. Lee, it’s highly advised that you pick some up. I’m certainly glad I did.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirit: Angel’s Envy Rye

25 Apr 2013

I wrote about Angel’s Envy Bourbon when it was first introduced. The bourbon, created by Lincoln Henderson who previously wielded his talents to produce Woodford Reserve, is unique in that it is finished in port barrels after its traditional aging in new charred oak barrels.

AngelsEnvyRyeThe result was delicious, with just the right amount of traditional, rich bourbon flavor and added complexity due to finishing in port barrels. Now Angel’s Envy is adding a rye to its lineup with a similar twist: This time they finish their traditional rye in Caribbean rum casks.

It’s worth pointing out that while Angel’s Envy and its parent, Louisville Distilling Company, said they had plans to build their own distillery, none of their products are distilled by the company. In fact, according to bourbon writer Chuck Cowdery, any plans for a Louisvile Distilling Company distillery have been put on the back-burner. Of course, that doesn’t mean the whiskey in the bottles isn’t tasty, and clearly Angel’s Envy’s finishing process makes it a unique spirit.

As for the rye, the company wouldn’t reveal the source of the whiskey, but there are some strong hints. The rye uses a mash bill recipe that is 95% rye and, as far as I know, only one company (Lawrenceburg Distillers Indiana) makes such a bill, and they happen to make it all for sale to other companies. So it’s fair to say I have a strong suspicion that this is the source of the rye which Angel’s Envy then takes and “finishes” in rum casks.

Whatever the source, the result is a 100-proof rye that will sell for $70 per bottle when it comes out next month in a limited number of states. Even though the rye doesn’t carry a formal age statement, the company reports the it is aged for around 6 years before being transferred to the rum casks for up to 18 months.

The color is a deep golden like well-aged Sauternes. On the nose, Angel’s Envy rye shows a fresh combination of pineapple, pear, pine, vanilla, and rum. A sip reveals plenty of alcohol heat but also sherry, oak, and maple candy. The finish shows soft woodiness, rum, and oak.

It’s a very interesting, unique rye that is dominated by maple sweetness and tropical fruit with hints of characteristic rye spice. Frankly, if you didn’t know what was in your glass, you might find it difficult to identify it as a rye. Still, it’s enjoyable straight with a cigar.

What it calls for is a flavorful cigar cigar with clean balance. I smoked two cigars with this rye that fit the bill: the Paul Garmirian Gourmet Series (well-aged if you can find it), and the Asylum, made by Christian Eiroa, formerly of Camacho. If I had more rye to sample with some other cigars, I’d be looking for other medium-bodied cigars with excellent balance.

Ultimately, this is a far different rye than most (for example Bulleit, which is also made at LDI, the likely source of Angel’s Envy). But it’s uniquely enjoyable. If a rye that will change your opinion of what a rye can be sounds up your alley, then pick up a bottle of Angel’s Envy Rye finished in Caribbean rum casks in May when it arrives on store shelves. I will.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Wild Turkey Rare Breed Bourbon

16 Apr 2013

Wild Turkey has a rough and rowdy reputation, but it’s also and underrated bourbon, with bold, enjoyable flavors. Rare Breed ($40 for 750 ml.) is the same mash bill as regular Wild Turkey 101, but with two twists that set it apart.

Wild-Turkey-Rare-BreedFirst, Rare Breed is bottled at barrel strength without being cut with water, resulting in a strong 108.4-proof whiskey. Second, the bourbon is a combination of 6, 8, and 12 year old Wild Turkey (the regular 101 variety used to carry an age statement of 8 years, but has since dropped it).

Rare Breed is deep amber in color and the nose features deep oak, citrus, cedar, and even a hint of fermenting tobacco. The bourbon uses a good bit of rye in its recipe and it shows on the palate: with spice and tannins in combination with pine, maple sweetness, and vanilla. The finish is clean with more lingering wood and spice.

Even though Rare Breed is a higher than normal proof, it’s still quite smooth and balanced. Usually, my rule of thumb is anything over 100-proof gets a splash of water to tone down the alcoholic heat, but that’s surprisingly unnecessary here, as Rare Breed is quite drinkable straight up. While it’s feisty and flavorful, it doesn’t feature the pure heat that often appears with spirits that are over 50% alcohol by volume.

All that spiciness makes it a perfect bourbon for pairing with spicy Nicaraguan cigars. Think: Tatuaje Fausto, Casa Fernandez Aganorsa, or EO 601 Red. Want a Dominican-made cigar? Try the Aging Room Quattro, Opus X, or LG Diez.

You can’t go wrong with any of those. But most of all, if you’re a bourbon drinker, don’t forget about Wild Turkey. It’s good stuff (even if it doesn’t have the cache or buzz of harder-to-find bourbons) and the Rare Breed is an excellent expression with plenty of power and guts, combined with just enough finesse and complexity.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Evan Williams 1783 Small Batch Bourbon

4 Apr 2013

My last Cigar Spirits article covered one of the priciest bourbons I keep around. This time, I’m looking at one of the least expensive: Evan Williams 1783 Small Batch Bourbon.

evan-williams-1783Just $15 will land you this bourbon from Heaven Hill Distillery which, in addition to Evan Williams and the eponymous Heaven Hill, also makes Elijah Craig, Old Fitzgerald, Larceny, and Parker’s Heritage, among others. Parker’s Heritage refers to Parker Beam (of the famous Beam bourbon family), master distiller at Heaven Hill along with his son, Craig. Since it’s founding in 1935, Heaven Hill has had a member of the Beam family as its master distiller.

The bourbon’s namesake, Evan Williams, was a Welshman who came to Kentucky via Virginia (although technically what is now Kentucky was part of Virginia then). According to legend, he became “Kentucky’s first distiller” in 1783. He was also a politician and a businessman.

Like the flagship “Black Label” bourbon, about a decade ago the small batch Evan Williams 1783 dropped its age statement. Prior to that, it was a 10-year-old bourbon (the Black Label was a 7-year-old back then). Now we only know that its designation as a straight Kentucky bourbon without an age statement means the youngest bourbon it can contain is at least four years old, but presumably it averages a bit older than the Black Label, which also has the same restriction.

The bourbon pours a light copper color and the nose reveals honey, sawdust, and a hint of citrus. On the palate the 86-proof bourbon shows more honey along with vanilla, oak, and burnt corn. The finish is medium-length with a buttered popcorn flavor.

The result is an easy-drinking bourbon that’s enjoyable neat or with a ice cube or two, even if it isn’t as complex as many higher-priced whiskeys. Its price makes it a guilt-free ingredient in a cocktail or even a bourbon and ginger.

And obviously it goes great with a cigar. I lit up a pre-release sample of the upcoming Recluse Draconian and enjoyed the pairing. Though I actually think a more mild- or medium-bodied cigar would go even better.

Some bourbon snobs may turn their nose up at this affordable, value-packed bourbon, but don’t let that influence you. Whether you’re a seasoned bourbon drinker or a novice, this is a very respectable, enjoyable spirit that’s worth drinking with a fine cigar.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Jefferson’s Presidential Select 18 Year Bourbon

19 Mar 2013

I keep a nice double-digit variety of bourbons at my house, but never more than one bottle of any particular bourbon. The only exception has been Jefferson’s Presidential Select 18 Year Bourbon, of which I currently have a stash of three unopened bottles.

JeffersonsPres18And even though they run around $100 apiece, I’d probably pick up a few more if I came across them. So while it’s an understatement to say I’m a fan of this bourbon, that’s not the whole reason why I always do a quick scan for “JPS 18” in a liquor store.

Jefferson’s Presidential Select 18 is one of the last 100% Stitzel-Weller bourbons you can buy. Sitzel-Weller is the distillery that made highly regarded wheat-recipe bourbon until it was closed in 1991, including the notoriously difficult-to-find Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve, which uses the same mash bill recipe. (Reports are the distillery began production of bourbon again earlier this year, but it will be a while before that production hits the market.)

These days, Pappy Van Winkle may still use 100% Stitzel-Weller bourbon for its oldest bourbons (20 and 23, as of 2011), but the younger varieties use bourbon made at Buffalo Trace. Jefferson’s Presidential Select 18 (which was preceded by a 17 year variety, and will be followed by a 21) is 100% Stitzel-Weller. It’s also all sold out, although you may find some on a few shelves.

In other words, it’s rare and old (18 years is very old for bourbon, even if it is only slightly past middle-age for scotch). But being very old and rare doesn’t do much for me, unless it’s also very good. And the 94-proof spirit has that too.

The deep copper-colored bourbon has a nose that reminds me of aged rum, with vanilla, dates, cake-batter, and wood. On the palate it really shines with an intensity that combines lots of oaky woodiness with a silky sweetness of toffee, dried fruit, and just a hint of citrus apples. The finish is long and balanced, with more toffee, wood, and resin.

It’s a flavor rollercoaster that shows the best of well-aged bourbon without the downsides that sometimes manifest as over-the-top oak or dry spice. As such, it requires a cigar that is equally well-balanced but still flavorful. The two that specifically fit that bill are the Padrón Serie 1926 Maduro and the Arturo Fuente Añejo.

Now $100 is a lot to spend on single bottle of bourbon (think how many excellent bourbons can be bought for half that much), which makes it something of a special occasion indulgence. Still, there’s a highly limited supply (it’s all been sold to retailers at this point) and the upcoming 21-year-old edition will certainly be even more expensive. Which is why I’d suggest serious bourbon fans scoop up a bottle or two if they get the chance. I know I will.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Basil Hayden’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

6 Mar 2013

My colleague recently listed five bourbons Maker’s Mark fans should try, in light of that spirit’s announcement—and subsequent retraction—that it was reducing its proof from 90 to 84. It was a timely article because demand for Maker’s will outpace the supply of fully aged Maker’s, which is why officials wanted to water down the bourbon in the first place.

Basil HaydensI like my colleague’s list, but one addition immediately came to mind: Basil Hayden’s. Maker’s is known for a smooth taste that emphasizes sweetness over spice. Likewise, Basil Hayden’s has built a reputation as an approachable bourbon with crispness over heat. So it stands to reason that many Maker’s fans might also like Basil Hayden’s, which is sold at a comparable cost ($35-40 per 750 ml. bottle).

Basil Hayden’s is the lightest bourbon in the Small Batch Bourbon Collection that’s made by Jim Beam. It’s 80-proof, as opposed to Knob Creek (100-proof), Baker’s (107-proof), and Booker’s (121- to 127-proof). And it probably has the most unique bottle of the bunch.

Basil Hayden’s is aged for eight years and has a high concentration of rye. That’s how Basil Hayden Sr.—a Catholic from Maryland who moved to Kentucky in the late 1700s—crafted the bourbon, when “Kentucky was but four years old and George Washington was president,” according to the bottle. “Today, we make Basil Hayden’s using the same skill and care that made it a favorite among America’s frontier settlers.”

Given the spirit’s low proof, I prefer to sip Basil Hayden’s with Whisky Stones which, unlike ice, won’t dilute it further. In the glass it has a light amber color and a clean nose of tea, eucalyptus, mint, and spice.

The flavor is predictably soft with only traces of pepper or heat. Instead, it’s characterized by honey, citrus, and some floral notes. The finish is brief and clean.

I’ve heard Basil Hayden’s classified as a bourbon for non-bourbon drinkers. I don’t think that’s fair. I consider myself a bourbon drinker, and I happen to appreciate it as a fine accompaniment to a mild, Connecticut-wrapped cigar. No, it doesn’t have the depth or complexity as, say, Booker’s. But it’s a nice change of pace and a smooth-tasting option for the open-minded.

Patrick A

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Noah’s Mill Bourbon

5 Mar 2013

As bourbons go, Noah’s Mill is a mysterious breed. It’s a product of Kentucky Bourbon Distillers (KBD), which until a year or two ago didn’t distill its own bourbon, instead buying bourbon from other distilleries. So the exact origin of the contents of this $50-60 bottle of Kentucky bourbon are unknown. (If you are wondering what bourbons are made where, this is one of the best lists I’ve seen at sorting out the known links between distilleries and bottles.)

Noahs-Mill-BourbonFurther, while for many years Noah’s Mill held an age statement of 15 years (meaning the youngest bourbon in the bottle was at least 15 years old), the bourbon recently eliminated its age statement. Multiple reports I’ve read (including this one) say that KBD was having trouble securing adequate amounts of 15-year-old bourbon, so they reformulated the recipe with bourbons ranging from 4 to 20 years of age, with a variety of different mash bills.

The result is the most acclaimed member of KBD’s small batch collection, which also includes Rowan’s Creek, Pure Kentucky XO, and Kentucky Vintage. Bottled at a “near barrel-strength” of 57.15% (or 114.3-proof) there is more unknown than known about this bourbon, which lets you simply evaluate it for how it drinks, as opposed to the decades or centuries of bourbon history that accompany many Kentucky spirits.

Noah’s Mill doesn’t have as much alcohol heat on the nose as you might expect from a nearly 115-proof spirit. Instead, the deep reddish-brown bourbon features lots of wood, leather, and brown spice aromas.

On the palate, once again, the lack of heat despite the relatively high proof surprises. Normally I’m one to water down (at least with a few drops) anything much over 100-proof, but this doesn’t need it, which predicably can lead to sneaky results if you have more than a glass or two.

Wood (to be expected given the 20-year age of some of the blend), maple syrup, baker’s spices, toffee, and raisin are all apparent. The finish is very long with woody spice and a hint of mint.

All in all, an excellent bourbon for those who like the woodiness of extra old bourbon. (Mix Booker’s with Pappy van Winkle and you’d end up with something like Noah’s Mill.) And at $50 a bottle (shop around; there’s a wide range of prices) it’s a good deal on a mysteriously tasty spirit.

Recommended cigar pairings include: Cuban Partagas Serie P No. 2, Surrogates Bone Crusher, 7-20-4 Lancero, and CyB Lonsdale Club.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys