Cigar Spirits: Garrison Brothers Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey (Fall 2013 Release)

In case you haven’t noticed, bourbon is having a bit of a renaissance right now. Look no further than Pappy Van Winkle, which regularly commands ten times the price it did just a few years ago. And the trend isn’t limited to old, rare, or established whiskeys. Dozens of small operations have popped up to produce so-called “artisanal” bourbon.

Some aren’t much more than a marketing story and some bourbon they bought from someone else, but others are making their own bourbon their own way. Garrison Brothers is the latter, with an emphasis on their own way. The company produces bourbon in Hye, Texas, which it releases in very small batches.

The fall 2013 release consists of just 24,000 bottles. Its recipe includes Texas Panhandle corn from the 2009 harvest, and it was distilled in 2010. My bottle was 3 of 37, which makes clear that Garrison Brothers uses small barrels (some say this accelerates the aging process). That would also explain the color, which is a surprisingly deep mahogany for such a youthful spirit.

It’s bottled at 47% ABV, or 94-proof. The nose is very basic: raw corn and oak along with some clove and green apple. On the palate it’s a surprisingly complex combination of cinnamon, dry cocoa, fudge, and cornbread. The finish is short with corn and clove.

The nose is a awfully intimidating and raw. But don’t let that fool you. There’s more finesse than you might think, especially given its youthfulness. Garrison Brothers suggests dropping an ice cube into this bourbon; I enjoyed it neat.

Seventy dollars (that’s what the suggested retail price is on the website) is an awful lot for a bourbon that has to display it’s age because it hasn’t reached its fourth year, which is the year it can be legally called “straight bourbon whiskey” without an age statement. But let’s face it: Comparing this to, for example, a $25, 9-year-old Kentucky bourbon would be pretty useless. It’s apples to oranges (or maybe eggplant).

I was pleased and surprised by this bourbon. It’s plenty unique and interesting. While it reminds me from time to time that it’s young, it also lets you forget that fact and just enjoy its complexity. Pair it with a spicy Honduran or Nicaraguan cigar like Camacho, Illusione (Rothchilds particularly), or something from Pepin (My Father, San Cristobal, or Tatuaje).

It’s not the type of bourbon I’d recommend to beginners. But as you branch out beyond the classics you’ll probably start to try some of the new, micro-disilleried whiskies being made in America. Most are just overpriced, rushed, and undistinguished. Garrison Brothers, however, is proof that this different style of American bourbon can be rewarding in its own unique way.

–Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys