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Cigar Spirits: George Dickel Barrel Select Tennessee Whisky

30 Jan 2014

It’s my contention that George Dickel is as underrated as Jack Daniels is iconic. That’s not a slight on either.  The two Tennessee whiskey brands are inextricably linked, but in all likelihood you’ve probably heard of Jack Daniels and not George Dickel, which might just be exactly how Dickel fans want it.

DickelBSBoth are more or less bourbon, but utilize the Lincoln County Process to filter the whiskey through charcoal. The result, according to both competitors, is a unique, smooth variety of American whiskey.

George Dickel Barrel Select is the top-of-the-line offering from Dickel ($35-40). In a whiskey world where “small batch” is pretty much a meaningless term, Barrel Select is a genuinely small batch product, with each batch consisting of just 10 barrels combined in each batch.

It’s bottled at 86-proof and, according to Dickel’s website, it’s aged between 10 and 12 years. It’s a medium amber hue with a nose that features tropical fruit, maple, and leather.

On the palate it has raw corn, roasted cashew, caramel, and wood. It has a slightly oily quality that reminds me of a Campbeltown single malts. The finish is clean with hints of wood along with maple and honey sweetness.

There’s a depth and sweetness to the Barrel Select that’s exceptional, even if it really makes me want to try the same Tennessee whisky at a higher proof (100- or 107-proof would be my ideal). Still, it’s a whisky that proves my contention that Dickel is under-appreciated, even if, at around $40, this may not be the best value of the Dickel line.

It has enough subtlety to call for a mild- to medium-bodied cigar pairing. I’d suggest a Macanudo Estate Reserve, Cuban H. Upmann, or E.P. Carrillo New Wave.

I can confidently recommend George Dickel to bourbon fans. In all honestly, you’ll probably want to start with the No. 8 or No. 12 varieties, which provide a fantastic price-to-value proposition, but don’t shy away from the Barrel Select, which is very smooth, flavorful, and highly underrated.

Patrick S

photo credit: George Dickel

Cigar Spirits: Rittenhouse 100 Rye Whisky

14 Jan 2014

These days there are plenty of bourbons and ryes that appeal to their esteemed heritage to justify a premium price point. It usually goes something like this: In 18XX, Captain John so-and-so was the first to create this amazing American whiskey, which was renowned for its special distilling techniques and smooth, complex flavor. Today, his great-great-grandson has re-created that recipe to introduce this special whiskey, which sells for $50-80.

RittenhouseRye100Usually such stories are stretching the truth at best. This is particularly true of new whiskeys that tend to rely heavily on marketing hype to justify a higher price because they don’t make their own whiskey, but buy wholesale and need to sell it for more because they’re a glorified middle-man.

Rittenhouse isn’t such a whiskey. It’s a bottled-in-bond, 100-proof rye made by Heaven Hill Distillery in Bardstown, Kentucky, that sells for $25. (Heaven Hill also makes Elijah Craig, Evan Williams, Larceny, Parker’s Heritage, and a number of other bourbons.)

The burnt umber-colored spirit features a fairly standard nose with vanilla, oak, and a hint of citrus. But it’s on the palate that the Rittenhouse gets interesting with fudge and marshmallow, orange marmalade, and hints of pine. Spice comes through on the finish, with wood and ginger zing.

This is an incredibly rich rye for just $25, with a lot more than just the woody spice you’d expect from a non-age statement rye. It’s perfect for a Manhattan (which, although it will likely be made with bourbon, traditionally rye was used) or other rye-based cocktails. I enjoy it straight.

Pair it with an earthy cigar like the Cuban Cohiba Maduro, Liga Privada No. 9, or Tatuaje Noella Reserva.

No matter what you choose, I highly recommend Rittenhouse as an American whiskey that provides tremendous value for an incredibly reasonable price. People seem to have caught on to how good Rittenhouse is, which is why it’s becoming increasingly difficult to find. It’s well worth seeking out.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Garrison Brothers Texas Straight Bourbon Whiskey (Fall 2013 Release)

2 Jan 2014

In case you haven’t noticed, bourbon is having a bit of a renaissance right now. Look no further than Pappy Van Winkle, which regularly commands ten times the price it did just a few years ago. And the trend isn’t limited to old, rare, or established whiskeys. Dozens of small operations have popped up to produce so-called “artisanal” bourbon.

Garrison-brothers-bourbonSome aren’t much more than a marketing story and some bourbon they bought from someone else, but others are making their own bourbon their own way. Garrison Brothers is the latter, with an emphasis on their own way. The company produces bourbon in Hye, Texas, which it releases in very small batches.

The fall 2013 release consists of just 24,000 bottles. Its recipe includes Texas Panhandle corn from the 2009 harvest, and it was distilled in 2010. My bottle was 3 of 37, which makes clear that Garrison Brothers uses small barrels (some say this accelerates the aging process). That would also explain the color, which is a surprisingly deep mahogany for such a youthful spirit.

It’s bottled at 47% ABV, or 94-proof. The nose is very basic: raw corn and oak along with some clove and green apple. On the palate it’s a surprisingly complex combination of cinnamon, dry cocoa, fudge, and cornbread. The finish is short with corn and clove.

The nose is a awfully intimidating and raw. But don’t let that fool you. There’s more finesse than you might think, especially given its youthfulness. Garrison Brothers suggests dropping an ice cube into this bourbon; I enjoyed it neat.

Seventy dollars (that’s what the suggested retail price is on the website) is an awful lot for a bourbon that has to display it’s age because it hasn’t reached its fourth year, which is the year it can be legally called “straight bourbon whiskey” without an age statement. But let’s face it: Comparing this to, for example, a $25, 9-year-old Kentucky bourbon would be pretty useless. It’s apples to oranges (or maybe eggplant).

I was pleased and surprised by this bourbon. It’s plenty unique and interesting. While it reminds me from time to time that it’s young, it also lets you forget that fact and just enjoy its complexity. Pair it with a spicy Honduran or Nicaraguan cigar like Camacho, Illusione (Rothchilds particularly), or something from Pepin (My Father, San Cristobal, or Tatuaje).

It’s not the type of bourbon I’d recommend to beginners. But as you branch out beyond the classics you’ll probably start to try some of the new, micro-disilleried whiskies being made in America. Most are just overpriced, rushed, and undistinguished. Garrison Brothers, however, is proof that this different style of American bourbon can be rewarding in its own unique way.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Parker’s Heritage Collection 2013 ‘Promise of Hope’ Bourbon

3 Dec 2013

Two weeks ago, I gave some recommendations for solid value bourbons. Parker’s Heritage Collection 2013 “Promise of Hope” is a bourbon that’s on the other end of the price spectrum.

ParkersHeritage13In fact, while each of the bourbons on my list cost less than $20, every bottle of Parker’s includes a $20 donation to the Parker Beam Promise of Hope Fund, a charity established through the ALS Association in honor of Heaven Hill Master Distiller Emeritus Parker Beam, who has recently been diagnosed with ALS (also known as Lou Gehrig’s Disease). So while the price might be high (around $90 a bottle), it’s worth knowing the revenue supports a good cause.

As for the single barrel offering, Heaven Hill (best known for Evan Williams and Elijah Craig) has this to say about it: “From among Heaven Hill’s nearly one million barrels in storage, Parker selected approximately 100 barrels of ten-year-old, rye-based bourbon from one of his favorite warehouses, the tiered 80-year-old Rickhouse EE in Deatsville, where they sat in high storage for 40 seasons. Each of the chosen barrels was dumped and bottled, with no chill-filtering, in 750 ml. bottles at Parker’s preferred bottling proof of 96 (48% alcohol/volume).”

The bourbon is a vibrant amber color. The nose features an inviting combination of fruit, clove, and baking spice. On the palate there’s more spice (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg), fruit (apple cider, dried cherries), and wood (dried oak and a hint of char). It’s perfectly balanced with a long finish that has plenty of sweetness and a hint of fresh corn.

I’ve always been a big fan of Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage bourbon, and there are similarities between the two Heaven Hill bourbons, although price isn’t one of them. In many respects, Promise of Hope is a more refined, more balanced, and more focused version of Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage.

On its own merits, it could be tough to justify the price (compared to Evan Williams Single Barrel), but the fact is these limited edition bourbons often get bought up and then resold at a premium on the secondary market. So I’d rather have the extra $20 go towards ALS research.

As for cigars, you’re going to want a balanced, elegant cigar to appreciate everything Parker’s Heritage Collection 2013 “Promise of Hope” has to offer. Think Davidoff Nicaragua, Partagas Benji Menendez Masters Series, or the Cohiba Behike.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Five Good Value Bourbons Under $20

19 Nov 2013

One of the great things about bourbon, when compared to, say, scotch whisky, is the quality of spirits available at affordable prices. The five bourbons I highlighted in my article about five good bourbons under $30 demonstrate the impressive spirits available at that price range.

bourbon-under-20Those are all bourbons I’d recommend to anyone, even if you told me price were no concern. Diving deeper into the value range, the following list of bourbons are available for $20 or less.

At the $20 price, you’re probably giving up at least one thing (complexity, proof, intensity), but I’m still impressed at what you can trade for a twenty-dollar bill: a satisfying bourbon that you can drink straight-up or with a few ice cubes, at a price that doesn’t make you wince when you mix it into your friend’s bourbon and Diet Coke.

Four Roses Yellow Label — I’m a big fan of Four Roses Single Barrel and Small Batch ($38 and $32, respectively), but my go-to house bourbon is Four Roses Yellow Label ($18). The bourbon is a blending of ten different bourbon recipes (two mashbills and five yeast strains). The result is a surprisingly rounded, complex bourbon with honey and fruit. My only wish would be to have a proof higher than just 80.

Evan Williams 1783 — The phrase “small batch” isn’t terribly descriptive, but the Evan Williams 1783 Small Batch is almost certainly smaller batch than it’s younger, more ubiquitous cousin who you might have encountered in a frat house. It’s also a nice step up for just a few bucks more (around $15). The 86-proof bourbon is a straightforward and pleasant combination of vanilla, oak, and burnt corn. (Read my full write-up here.)

Old Grand Dad 100 — For the money, I’m not a fan of the $40, 80-proof Basil Hayden, but I think highly of the $20, 100-proof Old Grand Dad. Which is interesting because they are basically the same whiskey (both use Beam’s high rye bourbon mashbill) and are named after the same guy (Basil Hayden is the “Old Grand Dad”). While Basil Hayden may be a bit thin, Old Grand Dad 100 shows off the rye spice with floral notes and a bit of citrus. Even better is Old Grand Dad 114, though it’s $5 more than the $20 Old Grand 100.

Wild Turkey 81 — The $18 Wild Turkey comes from the same barrels Wild Turkey 101 uses. While lacking an official age statement, it’s reportedly 6-8 years old. (The old, discontinued, 80-proof edition was made with four-year-old bourbon.) It has classic Wild Turkey bold flavors with oak, caramel, vanilla, and lots of cinnamon spice.

Old Forester — Old Forester uses the same recipe (mashbill and yeast) as Woodford Reserve. Reportedly, choice barrels are picked to be Woodford Reserve and the others end up as Old Forester, which isn’t aged quite as long and is bottled at 86-proof for $19. Old Forester is similar to its more expensive relative with lots of caramel, buttered corn, and dried fruit. Taste it side-by-side with Woodford and you’ll be surprised how well it measures up at half the price.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Michter’s Sour Mash Whiskey

14 Nov 2013

Michter’s is special name in American whiskey because the Michter’s Distillery in Pennsylvania made some great whiskey back in the day. The distillery closed in 1988, though there is still a tiny amount of bourbon from that distillery available for sale in the form of A.H. Hirsch—which cost around $100 a bottle when I wrote about it in 2008, and now will cost you around ten times as much because it is so rare.

michters-sour-mashLike the Hirsch Reserve bourbon my colleague wrote about earlier this year, this Michter’s whiskey has nothing to do with the Michter’s Distillery except the name. The new Michter’s is planning on opening a distillery in Kentucky but, for now, it sources its whiskey from others and doesn’t disclose its providers.

Sour mash refers to the process, rather than the specific mashbill like rye or bourbon. (In fact, both rye and bourbon can, and are, made with a sour mash style, with the most famous being Jack Daniel’s.) Sour Mash simply means that each batch uses part of the fermented mash from the previous batch.

While details are hard to come by, reportedly Michter’s Sour Mash uses the same recipe as an old product from the Pennsylvanian distillery: 50% rye, 38% corn, and 12% barley. That recipe (with only 50% corn, as opposed to 51%) would make it neither bourbon nor rye. Contrary to what some think, Sour Mash doesn’t mean a sour flavor.

Michter’s Sour Mash shows a dark amber color when poured straight. The nose features muted candied fruit, yeasty bread, and a bit of ripe red apple.

On the palate it’s a very unique profile with muted apple, bread, red fruit, tea, oak  and—remarkably for the 50% rye in the mashbill—only a subtle hint of spice. The finish is very clean with more fresh oak and subtle fruit.

At $40 a bottle, there are better values in American whiskey, but Michter’s Sour Mash earns points for it’s unique, enjoyable taste.

It lacks the intensity to pair with a full-bodied cigar, so stick with medium-bodied or mild smokes. I particularly enjoyed La Palina Classic, Aging Room M21, and a 15-year-old P.G. Gourmet with this unique American whiskey.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys

Cigar Spirits: Abraham Bowman Limited Edition Gingerbread Beer Finished Bourbon

31 Oct 2013

I remember having my first pumpkin beer in college, Shipyard Punpkinhead. Back then, it was a Halloween novelty. There weren’t that many and there were only (it seemed) far fewer that could be found at any given beer store.

bowman-gingerbreadToday pumpkin beers have exploded. My local grocery store has half a dozen in stock, and there are no fewer than a few dozen at my local beer and wine shop. Pumpkin pie (which more adequately describes most pumpkin beers than just “pumpkin”) is a perfect flavor for beer for autumn nights, when the temperature is crisp and we celebrate Halloween and Thanksgiving.

Abraham Bowman Limited Edition Gingerbread Beer Finished Bourbon, however, is the first such attempt I’ve seen to take the concept into bourbon. No, gingerbread and pumpkin aren’t exactly the same thing, but they share many similar characteristics: sweetness, cinnamon spice, nutmeg, and an association with autumn.

Founded in 1935, Bowman is Virginia’s preeminent bourbon distillery. Now based in Fredericksburg, the distillery is owned by Sazerac, which also owns the world-renowned Bufallo Trace Distilery in Kentucky. Reportedly, much (if not all) of what Bowman makes is distilled twice, first at Buffalo Trace before being shipped to Bowman where it is then distilled a second time on-site before being aged in Fredericksburg.

Bowman makes a number of different lines including Virginia Gentleman, Bowman Brothers (small batch, 90-proof), John J. Bowman (single barrel, 100-proof), and Abraham Bowman, which is released in small batches of limited edition whiskey, the latest being its Gingerbread Beer Finished Bourbon.

To make this unique bourbon, Bowman sent used bourbon barrels to the Hardywood Brewery in Richmond, Virginia, where they were used to age the brewery’s Gingerbread Stout. After that the barrels were sent back to Bowman, who used it to finish bourbon that had already been aged for eight years. After three months in the used gingerbread beer barrels, Abraham Bowman Limited Edition Gingerbread Beer Finished Bourbon was bottled at 90-proof.

The result is a bright, copper-colored spirit not dissimilar to the their small batch variety. On the nose you pick up slight hints of the gingerbread beer finish with clove and vanilla.

On the palate, the special finish becomes more apparent. It features a lush mouthfeel with classic vanilla and oak, combined with dashes of nutmeg, bread, and fall spices. The finish is notably short, though the spices linger a bit longer.

I can’t help but wonder if this wouldn’t be even better at a slightly higher proof (100 or even a bit higher?) as it’s a touch thin. Still, it’s an enjoyable spirit that subtlety shows off just enough of its unique finish. It’s perfect for this time of year, though—like pumpkin beer—I’m not sure I’d want to drink it year-round.

I’d recommend a medium-bodied cigar with plenty of Honduran tobacco as a pairing; something that has both spice and balance. Try the Room 101 Namakubi Ecuador, Sencillo Platinum, or Camacho Connecticut.

Patrick S

photo credit: Stogie Guys